Boris Gets Kobe at Kai: New York

On a recent Friday night, after a long Thursday night of debauchery at one of my shady favorites Bruno on 58th (not to be confused with Bruno Jamais on 81st) with a cast of some of my favorite heavyweight Italian compadres involving an imperial of Brunello del Montelpuciano, plates of pasta, veal, countless Blue Labels, and some amazing handrolled Graycliffs, I decided to attempt to dine light and searched for some solid Japanese on the Upper East Side. What I found was beyond phenomenal. I went to dine at an institution named KAI. It's located on Madison above the rarely frequented Itoen teahouse. All black and very sleek, it looks like a set from "Black Rain". Sat at the bar (always a must if one hopes to get the best). Ordered the chef's omakase and let me tell you as a complete sushi/Japanese food snob I found it to be fucking incredible! The meal seemed to go on forever with countless innovative courses. First a sampling of mostly vegetable-based amuses, followed by a soup filled with grilled crab, then a leg of succulent King Crab, some sashimi (the Toro was perfect), then a seared cod, followed by sushi (specifically the eel was delicious and there are quite a few who screw that fish up), then a perfectly-done Wagyu steak paired with a smoked salt (seriously fuck off Kobe Club you have no idea), then a rice dish with chopped Toro and scallions as a "palate cleanser", and finally a Bento Box of varied desserts among which the cheesecake especially struck my fancy. This place definitely gives Kuruma a run for their money although it's a bit apples to oranges as Kuruma is strictly sushi and sashimi. A minor downside was some annoying couple harassing some seemingly pleasant Japanese man and going on and on about how they were such hot shit, buy everything Japanese, and have warehouses filled with Japanese fashion. I had a warehouse full of Matsuda at age 12, but those were the 80s so it was acceptable. Nevermind the irritating Japanophiles, KAI is definitely one to try.

Still shady, just flying under the radar baby,
Boris

+KAI, 822 Madison Avenue, New York +1 212 988 7277
+Kuruma Zushi, 7 East 47th Street, New York +1 212 317 2802
+Bruno Ristorante, 240 East 58th Street, New York +1 212 688 4190